Production of silk involves (1) the care of
the domesticated silkworm (Bombyx mori)
from the egg stage through completion of the cocoon and (2) the production of
mulberry trees that provide leaves upon which the worms feed. The silkworm
caterpillar builds its cocoon by producing and surrounding itself with a long,
continuous fiber, or filament. Liquid secretions from two large glands within
the insect emerge from the spinneret, a single exit tube in the head, hardening
upon exposure to air and forming twin filaments composed of fibroin, a protein
material. A second pair of glands secretes sericin, a gummy substance cementing
the two filaments together.
Silk is a continuous filament within each cocoon,
having a usable length of about 600 to 900 m (2,000 to 3,000 feet). It is freed
by softening the binding sericin and then locating the filament end and
unwinding, or reeling, the filaments from several cocoons at the same time,
sometimes with a slight twist, forming a single strand. Several silk strands,
each too thin for most uses, are twisted together to make thicker, stronger
yarn in the process called throwing, producing various yarns differing
according to the amount and direction of the twist imparted.
Silk containing sericin is called raw silk. The gummy substance,
affording protection during processing, is usually retained until the yarn or
fabric stage and is removed by boiling the silk in soap and water, leaving it
soft and lustrous, with weight reduced by as much as 30 percent. Spun silk is
made from short lengths obtained from damaged cocoons or broken off during
processing, twisted together to make yarn. The thickness of silk filament yarn
is expressed in terms of denier, the number of grams of weight per 9,000 m
(9,846 yards) of length.
Silk has good strength, resisting breakage
when subjected to weights of about 4 g (0.5 ounce) per denier. Wetting reduces
strength by about 15–25 percent. A silk filament can be stretched about 20
percent beyond its original length before breaking but does not immediately
resume its original length when stretched more than about 2 percent. Silk, lower
in density than such fibers as cotton, wool, and rayon, is moisture-absorbent,
retaining as much as a third of its weight in moisture without feeling damp,
and has excellent dyeing properties. It is more heat-resistant than wool,
decomposing at about 170° C (340° F). Silk loses strength over a long period of
time without appropriate storage conditions and tends to decompose with
extensive exposure to sunlight but is rarely attacked by mildew. It is not
harmed by mild alkaline solutions and common dry-cleaning solvents. Friction
imparts a static charge, especially in low humidity. The rustling sound
associated with crisp silk fabrics is not a natural property of the fiber but
is developed by processing treatments, and it does not indicate quality, as is sometimes
believed.
There are 58 countries where more or less
silk is produced (total silk producing countries are more than 200). The
following are the countries silk is produced:
Afghanistan, Algeria, Argentina, Bangladesh,
Bhutan, Brazil, Bulgaria, Burma (Myanmar), Chile, China, Colombia, Conga, Egypt,
Ethiopia, France, Ghana, Greece, Hungary, India, Indonesia, Iran. Italy, Ivory
Coast, Japan, Kenya, North Korea, South Korea, Laos, Lebanon, Madagascar, Malaysia,
Mauritius, Mexico, Morocco, Nepal, Nigeria, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay,
Kampuchea, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Romania, Spain, Sri Lanka, Syria, Tanzania,
Thailand, Tunisia, Turkey, Uganda, Russia, Venezuela, Vietnam, Yugoslavia, Zambia,
Zimbabwe.
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